Not so micro: an exploration of the impact of fibre fragmentation

When language matters: “microfibre” vs “fibre fragment”

Microplastics have been extensively discussed in research across various industries, typically referring to particles originating from the breakdown of larger plastic debris or manufactured as small particles. However, as studies have expanded, it has become clear that the particles that are shed from textiles have a fibrous structure, leading to the use of the term “microfibre.” This term, however, conflicts with industry-specific definitions1, where “microfibre” refers to a fine, small-diameter yarn, not fibres that shed from the main textile construction.

Moreover, research increasingly indicates that fibres that shed from all materials – synthetic and natural – may pose harm to human health and the environment. Therefore, the term “fibre fragments” is gaining traction, as it more inclusively captures the full range of fibre fragments found within the environment. Yet, there is still a lack of a universally accepted term, resulting in varied and sometimes interchangeable use of terms such as ‘microplastic,’ ‘microfibre,’ and ‘fibre fragments.’

There is a range of players in the textile industry tackling this topic through different approaches. This has yielded a range of efforts aimed at minimising the impact of fibre fragments on the environment and our health, such as extensive research, initiatives, and raising awareness. However, on the flip side, this has led to disconnected efforts, causing:

Misalignment at the research level, hindering the comparability of findings across studies and creating knowledge gaps that negatively impact the development of lower-shedding materials and mitigation strategies.

Slowness at the industry level, impeding the collective adoption of innovative solutions to capture or reduce fibre shedding at different points in the supply chain.

Confusion at the policy level on whether regulation could guide mitigation measures.

Building consensus around a widely adopted definition within the industry would enhance communication regarding existing knowledge gaps and guide efforts to drive progress.

Root causes, sources and pathways of fibre fragments

Given the mounting evidence of the abundance of fibre fragments in the environment and potential impacts on ecosystems and human health2, fibre shedding is a topic of concern among fashion and non-fashion players. Understanding the root causes of this process is crucial for developing effective strategies to mitigate its negative impact. First of all, it is important to keep in mind that textiles shed during different phases of their life cycle (including end-of-use), due to chemical action, mechanical stress and environmental weathering.

Chemical Action: During the processing of fabrics (pretreatment, dyeing and finishing) chemicals are applied to enhance the properties like colour retention, crease resistance, and water repellency. However, such chemicals can also significantly affect the integrity of the fibres, weakening their structure and making them more prone to fibre shedding.

Mechanical Stress: During the manufacturing phase, and throughout the product use, friction might break down the integrity of the fibre. Everyday activities, such as laundering and wear, cause fibres to weaken and detach, leading to fragmentation.

Environmental weathering: Processes including ultraviolet radiation, chemical oxidation, and physical abrasion from external forces (e.g., wind, moving water, contact with rocks)3 can also contribute to fibre shedding. Factors like temperature fluctuations, moisture, and other environmental factors can gradually break down the surface of textiles, causing fibres to loosen and shed.

Once fibre fragments are released, they travel through waterways, air and soil4 and linger in our environment. When in water, fibre fragments can act as small sponges, carrying chemicals and transporting these substances into marine life. This process harms aquatic ecosystems by facilitating the entry of toxic substances into their food chain, threatening marine species’ health and biodiversity5. Furthermore, these fibres can enter our food chain, raising concerns about the long-term negative effects on the ecosystem and public health, for instance, fibre fragments can travel into the human bloodstream6. In addition to water, fibre fragments can be carried through air, and when inhaled may affect airways7. Their pervasive presence is driving an emerging focus within ecotoxicology, studying their effects on organisms at the individual, population, and ecosystem levels.

In recent years, several domestic and industrial mitigation efforts have been partly effective in capturing fibre fragments before they enter water systems.

In particular, at the domestic level, the development and commercialisation of washing bags (such as the GUPPYFRIEND), as well as filters for domestic washing machines (such as the Cora Ball and the Planet Care filter), have offered a partial solution to consumers in their efforts to mitigate the release of fibre fragments into the environment. Additionally, consumers can make a difference by opting for fewer and colder clothing washes or reducing the use of tumble dryers – all known to reduce the amount of fibre fragmentation. However, these solutions are often available only to a small part of the population (who own a washing machine and have the purchasing power to buy filters or washing bags in addition to it) and most importantly, they tackle the problem only once it has occurred, thus not resolving the issue at its source.

Alongside this, at the industrial level, solutions such as filtration systems are currently being developed and validated as a mitigation measure, such as the collaborative project between Paradise Textile and Matter Industries with Matter’s Regen™ (a self-cleaning filtration technology for textile manufacturers).

The complexity of this challenge highlights how further research into the sources and root causes, as well as the toxicological impact of fibre fragments, is crucial to devise solutions that address the problem at its source. Applying insights from research on shedding mechanisms will help the industry design textiles with a lower propensity for shedding. This, combined with responsible manufacturing practices—such as effectively managed wastewater treatment plants and industrial filtration systems to capture fibre fragments —will be crucial in reducing fibre fragmentation at its release point.

Top 3 learnings:

+ Knowledge gaps have consequences on research, policy-making and mitigation strategies, ultimately slowing down industry transformation.

+. Fibre fragments have a negative impact on our environment and our health too. They shed due to chemical processing, mechanical stress and natural weathering. They are released and transferred through waterways, air and soil.

+ There are a range of solutions focused on filtration preventing their entry into the natural environment, but there is also a need for innovations that can be implemented upstream in the supply chain. Increased research and development, along with the validation of these innovations, is essential to drive efforts aimed at minimising fibre fragmentation at the source.

Together with The Microfibre Consortium, Fashion for Good is soon launching a report that will dive deeper into various pillars of fibre fragments.