#Sustainability

2023-01-12

OEKO-TEX® new regulations 2023

Creating trust within the textile and leather industry and for its customers is the mission of OEKO-TEX®. Since trust is based on consistently high quality, the OEKO-TEX® Association is again publishing updates to the applicable test criteria, limit values and guidelines for its certifications.

The new regulations will finally come into force in Q1 2023, after a transition period. Other introductions include integration of the BHive® app from GoBlu into STeP, which will enable certified production companies to check sustainability requirements and chemical management in global supply chains. The new OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certification will verify reliable labelling of organic cotton textiles starting April 2023. In addition, OEKO-TEX® has issued a general ban on the use of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and footwear for the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications. Further changes to OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certification will make the previously voluntary self-assessment mandatory for all production sites from April 2023.

New integration: OEKO-TEX® STeP goes BHive®

Cooperation and exchange with experts from the textile and leather industry are of great importance to the OEKO-TEX® Association. An important partnership was created with sustainability accelerator GoBlu International Ltd.

The BHive® app, developed by GoBlu, enables manufacturers to collect information on all chemical products used on site, via smartphone, and determine which products meet the sustainability requirements of different brands and retailers. All information is automatically recorded in a chemical inventory so that brands can directly access transparent and precise data. Starting April 2023, OEKO-TEX® STeP customers can utilize this comprehensive chemical database to reduce labor, time and costs. The intelligent system also aligns compliance with recognized industry standards such as the STeP and ZDHC MRSLs.

New certification: OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON

Starting April 2023, the new OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certification will focus on reliable labelling of organic cotton textiles. "More and more consumers prefer sustainable textiles, and demand for organic cotton is growing rapidly," said OEKO-TEX® Secretary General Georg Dieners, "But how reliable is their labelling?" In addition to the qualitative DNA analysis of the sample material (i.e., Does a product contain genetically modified cotton, yes or no?), a second step involves quantification - determining the proportion of genetically modified cotton in a cotton product. The aim is not only to check production, but to make the raw materials traceable through the supply chain. Georg Dieners explains: "What's new is that we will start checking for genetically modified cotton at the beginning of the supply chain - at the ginning stage when the cotton fibres are separated from the seed. Then we can follow the flow of goods through all stages."

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT: Self-assessment to be mandatory in future plus adaptation to ZDHC update

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certification has consisted of a mandatory CAS number screening and laboratory analysis. The self-assessment and the on-site visit to customers were voluntary. While the on-site visit will remain voluntary until further notice, the self-assessment will become mandatory for all customers' production sites from April 2023. All certifications issued after April 1, 2023, must be accompanied by a valid self-assessment. For existing customers, there is a possible transition period. OEKO-TEX® has issued a general ban on the use of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and footwear for the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications. This is in coordination with the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) version 3.0 and its new Conformance Guidance 2.0. ECO PASSPORT will comply with these requirements in February 2023 to ensure a smooth transition for all customers.

Updates to STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT limit value catalogues

Additional pesticides have been added to STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT certifications, such as chlorothalonil in Annex 4 and 6, which were previously under observation. Also, three substances have been reclassified as Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) that may have serious effects on human health and the environment. In general, having strict requirements for certain substances reduces exposure to the environment, workers and consumers.

New under observation

In 2023, OEKO-TEX® will continue to monitor various substances based on the latest scientific findings and conformity with relevant specifications. This primarily concerns the antioxidant drometrizole and the chemical compound N-ethyl-2-pyrrolidone.

The 2023 new regulations are available in detail for OEKO-TEX® products on the website www.oeko-tex.com/news.

In addition, a webinar with detailed information is available to all interested parties on 16. January 2023. Register at oeko-tex.com.

A new standard to combat plastic waste in forests

With DIN SPEC 35808 “Tree Shelter for Forestry Applications,” the testing and research service provider Hohenstein, in collaboration with Rottenburg University of Forestry, as well as forestry authorities and industry partners, has established a clear framework for bio-based and fully biodegradable tree shelters. The pre-standard defines requirements and practical testing methods designed to reduce plastic waste in forests and strengthen the long-term protection of soil and the environment.

Hohenstein publishes 2025 Sustainability Report

The testing and research service provider Hohenstein has published its latest sustainability report, outlining key progress and strategic initiatives. The report focuses on ambitious CO₂ reduction targets, the company’s new mission statement and the systematic expansion of sustainable services for customers worldwide.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

Textile products made from synthetic fibres, finished fabrics or dyed materials release fibre fragments into the environment at every stage of their life cycle. With the new DIN SPEC 19296, Hohenstein has developed a standardised testing method to analyse how these fragments behave in soil under natural conditions. Until now, little was known about their environmental behaviour or potential ecological effects once released.

Jeanologia and BCome connect factory data with Life Cycle Assessment and Digital Product Passports

A new white paper by EIM by Jeanologia and BCome demonstrates how primary environmental data from denim finishing processes can be integrated into a garment's Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and prepared for use in a Digital Product Passport (DPP). A comparative case study highlights significant improvements at the production stage while also showing how these translate into the environmental performance of the finished garment.

unspun and Arvind partner to bring 3D weaving into industrial-scale apparel production

US fashion technology company unspun and Indian textile manufacturer Arvind Limited have announced a strategic partnership to introduce OneWeave™ 3D weaving technology into industrial-scale apparel manufacturing. Two machines are expected to become operational at Arvind’s Ahmedabad facility by December 2026, with plans for a potential expansion involving more than 30 additional machines across India and North America in 2027 and 2028.

Better Cotton Initiative partners with FarmRaise to simplify data management for US cotton growers

The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) has announced a partnership with agricultural technology company FarmRaise to simplify data collection, reporting and program participation for cotton growers in the United States. The digital platform will help farmers manage certification requirements, document agricultural practices and track progress towards regenerative agriculture goals while reducing administrative work. The solution is scheduled to become available in January 2027.

ITA spin-off TERNAfil wins third place at KUER.NRW 2026 with MAXCarbon technology

The Aachen-based ITA spin-off TERNAfil GmbH has secured third place in the KUER.NRW Business Plan Competition 2026 with MAXCarbon, an innovative carbon-ceramic hybrid fibre developed for applications in the hydrogen economy. The technology combines the mechanical properties of carbon fibres with the thermal and corrosion resistance of ceramic materials.