Research & Development

2025-08-06

Kendyr as a climate-friendly cotton alternative: STFI explores new value chains for salinised land in Central Asia

In large parts of Central Asia, decades of cotton irrigation have led to severe soil salinisation, with serious consequences for soil fertility and the future of cotton cultivation. An international research consortium, including the Saxon Textile Research Institute (STFI), has therefore investigated the potential of alternative fibre plants. The focus was on Apocynum spp. (kendyr), a bast fibre plant that can thrive on saline soils. The aim: to restore the agricultural use of former cotton fields and establish new textile value chains in the region.

Apocynum ssp. (kendyr) wild population © 2025 STFI

From wild growth to textile process chain

During the project period, only wild-harvested kendyr stalks were available. These were harvested locally and mechanically opened in Germany. The fibres were almost completely freed from shives, shortened to cotton staple length, and degummed to achieve a fineness of 40?dtex. Subsequent carding reduced the fineness to 5.6?dtex—comparable to Chinese hemp and closer to cotton than any other regionally available bast fibre. Kendyr also has a natural, slightly rust-red colour, similar to colour-grown cotton.

The refined fibre was successfully spun at production scale into a 30?tex (Nm?34) ring yarn blended with 70% cotton and processed into lightweight knitted fabrics (110–140?g/m²).

Research and industry partners

In addition to STFI, project partners included Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, the Leibniz Institute for Agricultural Engineering and Bioeconomy (ATB), HANFFASER Uckermark eG, the hessnatur Foundation, Sachsen-Leinen e.V., and international partners from Central Asia.