#Research & Development

2025-08-06

Kendyr as a climate-friendly cotton alternative: STFI explores new value chains for salinised land in Central Asia

In large parts of Central Asia, decades of cotton irrigation have led to severe soil salinisation, with serious consequences for soil fertility and the future of cotton cultivation. An international research consortium, including the Saxon Textile Research Institute (STFI), has therefore investigated the potential of alternative fibre plants. The focus was on Apocynum spp. (kendyr), a bast fibre plant that can thrive on saline soils. The aim: to restore the agricultural use of former cotton fields and establish new textile value chains in the region.

Apocynum ssp. (kendyr) wild population © 2025 STFI

From wild growth to textile process chain

During the project period, only wild-harvested kendyr stalks were available. These were harvested locally and mechanically opened in Germany. The fibres were almost completely freed from shives, shortened to cotton staple length, and degummed to achieve a fineness of 40?dtex. Subsequent carding reduced the fineness to 5.6?dtex—comparable to Chinese hemp and closer to cotton than any other regionally available bast fibre. Kendyr also has a natural, slightly rust-red colour, similar to colour-grown cotton.

The refined fibre was successfully spun at production scale into a 30?tex (Nm?34) ring yarn blended with 70% cotton and processed into lightweight knitted fabrics (110–140?g/m²).

Research and industry partners

In addition to STFI, project partners included Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, the Leibniz Institute for Agricultural Engineering and Bioeconomy (ATB), HANFFASER Uckermark eG, the hessnatur Foundation, Sachsen-Leinen e.V., and international partners from Central Asia.

Ring yarn 70730 / CO/Kendyr 30 tex (Nm 34) © 2025 STFI

STFI presents concepts for the textile circular economy and solutions for a healthy and safe life at Techtextil

Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. (STFI) has been supporting companies in developing marketable innovations for over 30 years. With a clear focus on sustainability, the environment, health and protection, the STFI offers future-oriented research, textile testing for tailor-made solutions and certification of per- sonal protective equipment. At Techtextil 2026, the institute will present ideas for the textile circular econ- omy and showcase solutions for healthy and safe living.

The region of renewable raw materials: Central German Alliance for Bioplastics

The development of sustainable plastic solutions is rapidly gaining importance in light of global environ- mental pollution, dwindling fossil resources and ambitious climate protection targets. As part of the re- gional alliance RUBIO, which brings together 18 partners from central Germany and the Berlin-Branden- burg area, the bio-based and biodegradable plastic polybutylene succinate (PBS) was comprehensively investigated, starting with the raw material, through the manufacturing process, to industrial application.

17th Colloquium on Recycling for Textiles with accompanying trade exhibition in Chemnitz

On 3 and 4 December 2025, the 17th colloquium on recycling for textiles will take place at the Hotel Chemnitzer Hof. The event brings together experts from industry, science and research to present and discuss current developments, technologies and business models for a sustainable circular economy in the textile industry.

Smart textiles can also be sustainable, eco-friendly and AI-powered – ITA at Techtextil 2026

Sports shoes made from algae, leggings made from mushrooms, filtering (diesel) oil from water, 4D textiles, recyclable, sustainable and featuring AI – this is what the ITA Group is presenting at three individual stands run by ITA Aachen, ITA Augsburg gGmbH and ITA Technologietransfer GmbH on the joint stand of Elmatex in hall 12.0 D05.

Stylish design made from sustainable materials – two DITF research projects receive Techtextil Innovation Awards

Materials made from domestic, renewable raw materials reduce CO₂ emissions, prevent microplastics from entering the environment, and close the material cycle. The German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are developing nature-based alternatives to synthetically produced and predominantly petroleum-based materials. Two research projects have received a prestigious Techtextil Innovation Award. NUO Flexholz and the lignin-coated material FormLig demonstrate that sustainable concepts can meet high standards of functionality and design. Both projects were carried out in close collaboration with industry.

Hohenstein publishes 2025 Sustainability Report

The testing and research service provider Hohenstein has published its latest sustainability report, outlining key progress and strategic initiatives. The report focuses on ambitious CO₂ reduction targets, the company’s new mission statement and the systematic expansion of sustainable services for customers worldwide.

ITM presents cutting-edge textile research at Techtextil

From April 21 to 24, 2026, the Chair of Textile Machinery and High Performance Material Technology (ITM) at TUD Dresden University of Technology will be presenting its current research at Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens. In Hall 12.0, Stand D41, the team will be demonstrating how it combines high-performance fibers, AI-supported digital development tools and innovative machine technologies to develop textile solutions for lightweight construction, construction, medical technology and sustainable production from atom to product.

Speed and connectivity: Techtextil and Texprocess provided market-ready solutions for industries under pressure

With more than 36,000 visitors and 1,700 exhibitors from a total of 112 countries, Techtextil and Texprocess 2026 demonstrated how innovation comes into industrial use. The convergence of research, industry and application proved to be a breeding ground for new material solutions, manufacturing and processing technologies. Natural fibres, performance apparel, connected systems and AI-driven processing technologies emerged as key growth and future markets.

Italian Textile Machinery heads to Geneva for Index 2026

An important delegation of Italian companies will exhibit at the upcoming INDEX 2026, the world’s leading event for the nonwovens sector, taking place from May 19 to 22 in Geneva (Switzerland). Numerous Italian exhibitors will be present within the Italy Pavilion, organized by the Italian Trade Agency (ICE) and ACIMIT, an exhibition area of over 140 square meters dedicated to the latest innovations proposed by the Italian industry.