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#Recycling / Circular Economy

Canopy shifts focus towards recycling and traceability in updated Hot Button criteria

Revised assessment framework for man-made cellulosic fibre producers places greater emphasis on Next Gen fibres, supply chain transparency and forest conservation. The new criteria will take effect with the 2027 Hot Button Report.

Environmental non-profit organisation Canopy has introduced revised criteria for its annual Hot Button Report, which evaluates producers of man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs), including viscose, lyocell and acetate. The updated framework places greater emphasis on scaling alternative fibre sources, improving supply chain traceability and supporting forest conservation, while maintaining responsible sourcing as a central requirement.

The revised criteria mark a new phase for the Hot Button initiative, which has assessed forest-related risks in MMCF supply chains for the past decade. According to Canopy, the changes reflect progress in responsible sourcing practices as well as growing expectations regarding circular materials and supply chain transparency.

New criteria and simplified rating system

The updated framework reduces the number of assessment categories from seven to five and introduces more clearly defined expectations for producers. These include targets expressed in both absolute volumes and percentages, taking into account the different capabilities of small, medium-sized and large manufacturers.

The existing shirt colour rating system has also been simplified to three categories: green, yellow and red. Producers with known high-risk sourcing will receive a red shirt rating.

A green shirt indicates low or no known risk of sourcing from Ancient and Endangered Forests or using controversial fibre in a producer's supply chain.

Greater importance will be attached to the adoption of Next Gen Solutions, including fibres produced from recycled textile materials. The revised assessment also strengthens the focus on traceability and landscape-level forest conservation projects.

Supporting the transition towards circular fibres

The Hot Button Report is used by more than 550 brands participating in Canopy's CanopyStyle initiative to inform their purchasing decisions. In addition to assessing forest sourcing practices, the report evaluates producers' efforts to develop and scale alternative fibre solutions.

Maryann Ramirez, Senior Lead at Canopy, sees the revised framework as an opportunity to build on the progress achieved over the past decade: “The Hot Button helped change the conversation about where fashion’s fibres come from. Ten years ago, the industry was asking whether viscose could be sourced without destroying the world’s most vital forests. Today, we have the opportunity to build a fibre system that is circular, resilient, and keeps forests standing.”

Ramirez also emphasises the importance of maintaining a consistent and transparent assessment system while recognising different approaches to improvement: “Hot Button is a system that must feel fair, equitable, and consistent year-to-year so producers can plan with confidence. At the same time, it must remain flexible enough to credit diverse pathways to impact​”

Implementation scheduled for 2027

Canopy will apply the revised criteria for the first time in its 2027 Hot Button Report.

According to the organisation, all 28 MMCF producers currently included in the assessment were consulted during the development process, together with selected brand partners. Canopy also conducted a legal review to examine the framework's alignment with international legislation.

Further information on the revised assessment framework is available through the Canopy Hot Button criteria.



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