#Raw Materials

2021-03-04

Organic Cotton, with confidence of no genetic engineering

Manufacturers, brands and retailers, as well as certification organisations, benefit from complete analytical evidence right through to the end product: consumers can be confident that no genetically modified cotton has been detected in the articles they buy. © Hohenstein

Textiles without genetic engineering - when it comes to this concern, more and more consumers are turning to organic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. This is because the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds as well as chemical pesticides and fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are found time and again in textiles that are actually labelled with the relevant organic labels.

Hohenstein is one of only a few testing laboratories worldwide accredited to ISO 17025 for the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol

The conceivable causes of contamination of organic cotton by genetic modifications are complex and extend along the entire value chain. The textile testing service provider Hohenstein is currently one of five laboratories in Europe that carries out accredited testing of textiles for genetically modified organisms (GMO) in accordance with the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol.

The protocol was developed by the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) as an International Workshop Agreement (IWA) on the initiative of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Textile Exchange. The aim is to be able to apply an official, standardised GMO testing protocol for textiles from organic cultivation. According to this, all organic cotton must be free of genetic engineering, whereas conventional cotton permits the use of genetic engineering. In mid-February 2021, the initiators of the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol published an overview of the 14 testing laboratories worldwide that are permitted to carry out tests in accordance with the protocol's requirements, including the German testing service provider Hohenstein.

However, the Hohenstein experts have also developed their own molecular biological detection systems in order to be able to test genetically modified cotton at all critical points along the entire value chain - from raw cotton to yarns and fabrics to finished end products. The screening thus allows complete traceability throughout the entire textile chain with clear yes/no statements about GMO-free cotton or textiles.

Textiles without genetic engineering - with this concern, more and more consumers are turning to organic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. © Hohenstein

As a member institute of the OEKO-TEX® Association, Hohenstein also screens textiles for genetically modified organisms as part of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification. If the requirements are met, the articles can be advertised here with the claims "organic cotton", "biological cotton" or "GMO not detectable".

Manufacturers, brands and retailers, but also certification organisations, benefit from complete analytical evidence all the way to the end product: consumers can be confident that no genetically modified cotton could be detected in the articles they buy. This is because up to now most organic certifications either do not include any obligatory laboratory tests at all or only random sample tests on cotton seeds.

More information:?

http://www.hohenstein.com/gmo-testing?

http://www.hohenstein.com

Two steps to 100 percent certainty - Hohenstein GMO tests are carried out as follows:

1. The sample is shredded and the cotton fibres are broken down mechanically and enzymatically. The genetic material (DNA) is isolated from the fibre and purified in a multi-stage process.

2. A genetic modification exists if specific target sequences (marker genes) are present in the DNA. These can be detected by molecular biology. Control reactions are used to detect unmodified cotton DNA and to exclude false-negative results.

A new standard to combat plastic waste in forests

With DIN SPEC 35808 “Tree Shelter for Forestry Applications,” the testing and research service provider Hohenstein, in collaboration with Rottenburg University of Forestry, as well as forestry authorities and industry partners, has established a clear framework for bio-based and fully biodegradable tree shelters. The pre-standard defines requirements and practical testing methods designed to reduce plastic waste in forests and strengthen the long-term protection of soil and the environment.

Hohenstein publishes 2025 Sustainability Report

The testing and research service provider Hohenstein has published its latest sustainability report, outlining key progress and strategic initiatives. The report focuses on ambitious CO₂ reduction targets, the company’s new mission statement and the systematic expansion of sustainable services for customers worldwide.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

Textile products made from synthetic fibres, finished fabrics or dyed materials release fibre fragments into the environment at every stage of their life cycle. With the new DIN SPEC 19296, Hohenstein has developed a standardised testing method to analyse how these fragments behave in soil under natural conditions. Until now, little was known about their environmental behaviour or potential ecological effects once released.

AMSilk and Ajinomoto Foods Europe expand partnership to enable industrial-scale production of silk proteins

AMSilk GmbH (“AMSilk”), a global leader leader in biotech produced silk materials, today announced a significant expansion of its partnership with Ajinomoto Foods Europe (AFE), marking a key step in scaling the industrial production of its silk proteins. Building on the collaboration first established in 2023, the two companies have now entered into a long-term manufacturing and supply agreement, enabling the transition from industrial validation to dedicated, large-scale production.

C&S strengthens its governance to support its evolution

C&S announces the appointment of Marco Lucietti to its Board of Directors. With extensive international experience across the textile and denim industries, Lucietti will work alongside CEO Federico Corneli, contributing to the company’s managerial development, organizational structure and long-term strategic direction.

Industrial scale meets verified governance: RE&UP is now B Corp™ certified

RE&UP, the circular-tech transforming global textile waste into high-volume Next-Gen materials, has officially become a Certified B Corporation™. The milestone establishes the industrial recycler among a select group of manufacturing infrastructure providers verified as meeting B Lab Standards for social and environmental performance, transparency, and accountability.