#Raw Materials

2021-03-04

Organic Cotton, with confidence of no genetic engineering

Manufacturers, brands and retailers, as well as certification organisations, benefit from complete analytical evidence right through to the end product: consumers can be confident that no genetically modified cotton has been detected in the articles they buy. © Hohenstein

Textiles without genetic engineering - when it comes to this concern, more and more consumers are turning to organic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. This is because the cultivation of organic cotton requires the renunciation of genetically modified seeds as well as chemical pesticides and fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic modifications are found time and again in textiles that are actually labelled with the relevant organic labels.

Hohenstein is one of only a few testing laboratories worldwide accredited to ISO 17025 for the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol

The conceivable causes of contamination of organic cotton by genetic modifications are complex and extend along the entire value chain. The textile testing service provider Hohenstein is currently one of five laboratories in Europe that carries out accredited testing of textiles for genetically modified organisms (GMO) in accordance with the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol.

The protocol was developed by the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO) as an International Workshop Agreement (IWA) on the initiative of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Textile Exchange. The aim is to be able to apply an official, standardised GMO testing protocol for textiles from organic cultivation. According to this, all organic cotton must be free of genetic engineering, whereas conventional cotton permits the use of genetic engineering. In mid-February 2021, the initiators of the ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol published an overview of the 14 testing laboratories worldwide that are permitted to carry out tests in accordance with the protocol's requirements, including the German testing service provider Hohenstein.

However, the Hohenstein experts have also developed their own molecular biological detection systems in order to be able to test genetically modified cotton at all critical points along the entire value chain - from raw cotton to yarns and fabrics to finished end products. The screening thus allows complete traceability throughout the entire textile chain with clear yes/no statements about GMO-free cotton or textiles.

Textiles without genetic engineering - with this concern, more and more consumers are turning to organic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. © Hohenstein

As a member institute of the OEKO-TEX® Association, Hohenstein also screens textiles for genetically modified organisms as part of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification. If the requirements are met, the articles can be advertised here with the claims "organic cotton", "biological cotton" or "GMO not detectable".

Manufacturers, brands and retailers, but also certification organisations, benefit from complete analytical evidence all the way to the end product: consumers can be confident that no genetically modified cotton could be detected in the articles they buy. This is because up to now most organic certifications either do not include any obligatory laboratory tests at all or only random sample tests on cotton seeds.

More information:?

http://www.hohenstein.com/gmo-testing?

http://www.hohenstein.com

Two steps to 100 percent certainty - Hohenstein GMO tests are carried out as follows:

1. The sample is shredded and the cotton fibres are broken down mechanically and enzymatically. The genetic material (DNA) is isolated from the fibre and purified in a multi-stage process.

2. A genetic modification exists if specific target sequences (marker genes) are present in the DNA. These can be detected by molecular biology. Control reactions are used to detect unmodified cotton DNA and to exclude false-negative results.

A new standard to combat plastic waste in forests

With DIN SPEC 35808 “Tree Shelter for Forestry Applications,” the testing and research service provider Hohenstein, in collaboration with Rottenburg University of Forestry, as well as forestry authorities and industry partners, has established a clear framework for bio-based and fully biodegradable tree shelters. The pre-standard defines requirements and practical testing methods designed to reduce plastic waste in forests and strengthen the long-term protection of soil and the environment.

Hohenstein publishes 2025 Sustainability Report

The testing and research service provider Hohenstein has published its latest sustainability report, outlining key progress and strategic initiatives. The report focuses on ambitious CO₂ reduction targets, the company’s new mission statement and the systematic expansion of sustainable services for customers worldwide.

New DIN SPEC assesses environmental impact of textile fragments in soil

Textile products made from synthetic fibres, finished fabrics or dyed materials release fibre fragments into the environment at every stage of their life cycle. With the new DIN SPEC 19296, Hohenstein has developed a standardised testing method to analyse how these fragments behave in soil under natural conditions. Until now, little was known about their environmental behaviour or potential ecological effects once released.

Brazil sets new cotton export record and consolidates global leadership

Brazil ended the 2025/26 commercial year with a new record, consolidating its position as the world’s largest cotton exporter. Between August 2025 and July 2026, the country shipped 3,373,941 tonnes of the fiber, 19% more than in the previous cycle, and reached record revenue of US$5.3 billion. The result represents a milestone in Brazil’s expansion in the international market and reinforces the country’s role as a strategic supplier to the global textile industry.

ICAC International Seminar in Taipei to explore strategic synergies across the textile supply chain

The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) — together with the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF), under the guidance of the Ministry of Economic Affairs and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Taiwan — will bring international cotton and textile leaders together in Taipei on September 10 for the ICAC International Seminar 2026.

Aid by Trade Foundation presents annual report for 2025: Market position and impact of sustainably verified natural fibres strengthened

Despite global supply chain challenges, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) was able to further expand its international role in promoting sustainably verified natural fibres in 2025. In doing so, the foundation remains true to its fundamental approach of leveraging market forces. Last year, it generated total revenues of EUR 7.8 million; this included EUR 6.7 million collected through the successful marketing of four standards: Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), CmiA Organic, The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS), and the Regenerative Cotton Standard (RCS). AbTF invested the resulting income in projects aiming to protect biodiversity, support women, increase transparency in the textile supply chain, and implement its verification system.

The LYCRA Company expands its co-creation vision through an immersive Lifestyle District at Intertextile Shanghai.

The LYCRA Company, a global leader in fiber and technology solutions for the apparel industry, is reimagining the trade show experience at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Autumn Edition, which opened today in China. Building on the success of last year's ALL IN concept, the company has expanded its co-creation vision into a 356-square-meter Lifestyle District featuring partners Jingzili New Material, JYT Textile, Lianxingfa Knitting, and Trend Textile. The district is part of a larger 895-square-meter pavilion showcasing a total of 19 co-exhibitors. Together, they demonstrate how innovations in fiber, fabric, and garments can be combined to create compelling solutions for both work and play.

Plastic-free stretch technologies drive new direction for denim innovation

As the denim industry looks for ways to reduce its reliance on synthetic fibres, plastic-free stretch technologies are gaining momentum. Developments based on mechanical fabric construction and natural rubber are demonstrating that comfort and stretch can be achieved without conventional elastane, supporting both recyclability and circular product design.

"Dynamic markets do not only create uncertainty – they also create opportunities."

Volatile markets, increasingly complex materials and growing demands for flexibility are changing the weaving industry. At the same time, new opportunities are emerging in technical textiles, filtration, composites and many other specialised applications. Since taking over as Head of DORNIER's Weaving Machines Product Line at the beginning of 2026, Yvonne Schuberth has been helping to shape this development. In this interview with TexData, she explains why process stability and customer proximity remain the foundation of innovation, how digitalisation is transforming weaving mills, and why she believes the future belongs to technologically demanding applications.