Denim

2022-10-20

Officina39 presents the kaleidoscopic possibilities of responsible denim at Kingpins Show

The SS24 collection takes the stage in Amsterdam in the name of sustainable dyeing, while key collaborations show how to use less and reuse more: water saving and circularity, two authentic “kingpins” of Officina39’s mission.

Denim is an extremely versatile fabric that contains within itself infinite expressive possibilities: in the right hands, it can be transformed into a canvas where sustainable colors and processes are explored, such as those developed by Officina39's Multicolor Denim Dreaming SS24 collection. Its Creative Leader Juan Manuel Gomez can precisely combine artistic expression with a thorough technical experience, being able to create inspirations that push the boundaries of both aesthetics and performance while respecting the planet and the people:

“Color is key this SS24 season, and experimentation in denim has reached new heights. We have found new ways to translate the indigo process of denim into polychromy: we use vibrant colors to play with different techniques to infuse energy and create a summer collection where indigo achieves multicolored shades”.

The new collection presented at Kingpins Amsterdam (October 19-20) is a powerful combination of several Officina39’s sustainable key technologies:

  • Nebudye D: a wide range of fresh colors to obtain a unique dyeing effect in nebulization/fog system machinery and can be discharged in a creative way with Oz-One Powder, an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment, and Remover IND/J-N, Officina39’s solution to replace the use of Potassium Permanganate (PP) on denim and obtain a worn and distressed vintage look.
  • Novantic series: a combination of selected dyestuffs with a special mordanting agent suitable to obtain surface dyeing to provide vintage or old look effects.
  • Recycrom™: a patented dyestuffs range obtained through a cutting-edge upcycling process that involves textile fibers from used clothing and manufacturing waste for dyeing and printing applications. Its sustainable and revolutionary powders assure a whole universe of denim effects: from classic authentic vintage to acid wash look (Eco Marble), from printed effect (Indigo Replica) to worn and distressed vintage look (Recycrom™ Dirty).
  • Just One Step Process: an innovation that saves time, energy, space and of course water, by combining several phases of the Aqualess Mission at the same time: a raw garment enters the machine and a garment with a basic vintage effect comes out ready to be dried, already treated, bleached and softened.
  • Remover Activator: a technology that in combination with PP replacement productscreates in one step general bleaching, localized corrosion and highlights effects on jeans.


Aqualess Mission, the combination of four processes that allows garment laundry processes to reduce 75% of the water use, is one of Officina39’s most appreciated technologies and at Kingpins will play a special role in collaboration with BluConnection to dye Naveena fabrics and garments.

BluConnection is a leading producer of pre-reduced liquid indigo: its products and services meet internationally recognized quality standards and align with environmental and social sustainability regulations. That’s why Officina39 is proud to couple its Aqualess Mission with BluConnection’s top technologies: DenimBlu30, pre-reduced liquid indigo used by denim mills globally to dye denim fabric, and BluWit, a plant-based reducing agent that eliminates the need of hydrosulfite in the dyeing processes. The result is an easier process to neutralize the garment, optimizing time and consumption (both reduced by 50% compared to a classic neutralization) while maintaining authentic denim.

Aqualess Mission, together with Recycrom™, Nebudye D and Smart Bleach, contributes also to the third chapter of The Circle Book, the collaboration project for circular design developed by Officina39, Meidea and Lenzing in recent years. Kingpins is the perfect stage to present ‘The Circle Book 3 / Re-establish framework’, that involves new partners, supporters and four teams of designers from Mexico, Italy and Argentina for the creation of the outfits.

“Transparency is a stepping stone towards a more ethical and responsible fashion industry, and so it has been key to incorporate this fundamental value throughout the production process, providing traceability through the supply chain, creating a tangible tool for brand expansion and designer awareness, sustainability and forging a responsible mindset for future collections.” excerpt from the general concept ‘The Circle Book 3 / Re-establish framework’.

Circularity is also the key concept of the official Kingpins creative workshop organized by Officina39, The Vintage Showroom and Tintes Egara, “Circular Vintage Shop”: a live dyeing performance to apply Recycrom™ in combination with waterless technologies Novapret Sand Dirty and Remover Ind/J-N on Italian brand OVS giveaway overstock garments.


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