Fascination® Sari - Efficient production of saris in a fascinating range of patterns on the FL 20/16

The new fabrics are as beautiful as conventional saris and can be produced in a single piece, so that they can be manufactured extremely economically. The pattern, together with the sections that are patterned with specific designs, such as the elaborately decorated shoulder piece at the end, which is known as the pallu, are worked directly into the fabric by the FL 20/16.
For simpler patterns, the embroidery process can now be dispensed with - a procedure that has always been carried out on net saris having marquisette or tulle constructions. All that has to be done is to hem the edges or – as on the model shown here (Fig. 1) – use hemming tape as another option to create a fabric with a perfect drape.

Fig. 1: Sari made on a FL 20/16
The increased performance of the FL 20/16 is the result of its technical features:

• four ground guide bars and 16 pattern guide bars, each with EL drive,
• the KAMCOS® computer platform equipped with the Motion Control/Multi Speed facility, which permits the speed of warp yarn delivery and fabric take-down to match the specific requirements of the pattern.

When producing a complete sari having a length of 5.50 m, the computer facilities of the FL 20/16 can handle the data sets for working up to 17,100 knitted rows. At a working width of 132", this results in two matching saris being produced next to each other.

Embroidery-like effects
The pink and gold sari shown on this page has a filigree, lattice-like ground with a dense, all-over pattern, whose relief-like characteristics make it look as if it has been embroidered. The multifaceted design is made up of diamonds, ovals, dots, dense stripes and, in the pallu section, teardrop paisley motifs. This produces an effective ensemble, which is created by the 16 pattern bars on the marquisette-like ground construction. 

The three-dimensional design is produced by placing the pattern bars in positions 1 to 16, so that they are in front of the four ground guide bars. Of course, as well as graphic patterns, floral patterns, such as those shown in Fig. 2 (teaser image at news overview), and similar decorative effects can also be produced. Materials that have been designed to provide comfort support this attractive look. For example, polyamide in the ground makes the fabric feel soft against the skin, whilst polyester is used to work the pattern. These materials, in combination with soft-touch finishing, produce a fabric that is both beautiful and extremely comfortable to wear.

A wide variety of different grounds
The patterning possibilities offered by the EL drive system for handling the ground guide bars can be used to increase the range of patterns that can be worked on the marquisette-like ground. The electronic control facilities and managing the pattern data of both the pattern and ground guide bars also enable the ground lapping to be changed within a repeat effortlessly. Fig. 3 shows an example of this. To produce the filigree design with its delicate, arching lines, a regular lattice-like ground was used, into which GB 17, 19 and 20 segmentally worked additional lengthwise stripes.
As well as grounds with a marquisette look, tulle constructions can also be worked on the FL 20/16.

Fig. 4: Design for FL fabrics 

Coloured effects
Processing yarns with different coloured sequences is another way of creating patterns on sari fabrics. Fig. 4 shows the wide range of optical effects that can be produced. A space-dyed, multicoloured yarn was processed to produce the pattern illustrated here, and its mixture of colours highlights the dynamics of the design elements attractively.
Additional coloured accents can be worked by combining the bright, iridescent yarns with single-colour yarns.

Finishing
No special know-how or additional equipment are needed to finish the warp-knitted sari fabrics. As is usual, the fabrics are washed, dyed, thermofixed, stentered and treated by carrying out soft-touch finishing.

The wide range of patterns on the new sari fabrics is absolutely fascinating.