Denim

2022-11-22

Creativity and innovation mark Denim Premiere Vision show

For the past 15 years, Denim Première Vision has fueled, guided, and inspired the international denim community. These 30 seasons of innovation and inspiration will be celebrated this November 23 & 24 at a show encompassing business, fun and inspiration.

After Germany and a successful first edition in Berlin last June, the denim-expert show continues its European tour in Italy, with its return to Superstudio Più in Milan. For two days, this unique, inspiring destination will invite the international denim community - and the fashion industry more generally - to broaden their business perspectives and discover new sources of creativity.

Aimed at all creative fashion brands developing denim collections - fashion and luxury brands, pure jeanswear players, web players - the show will present a selective offer from over 66 exhibitors, all leaders in the global creative denim industry, from 14 countries - including Italy, Japan, Spain, Turkey, Morocco, Bangladesh and Pakistan - to partner and support the development and creation of the spring summer 24 collections.

In addition to the offer, this edition will feature:

• A new program of talks by exhibitors and experts regarding industry challenges - sustainability, digitization, production, etc.

• Denim Fashions Seminars and Digital Live Sourcing: fashion seminars conducted online and at the show by the Denim Première Vision fashion team to help guide creatives in designing and building their denim collections.

• NEW: 3 Forums will decode the spring summer 24 denim trends via selected fabrics, accessories and finished products, accompanied by photos and immersive videos.

• The Denim Fashion District: for the 2nd consecutive season, some ten ready-to-wear and accessories brands will preview their collections created in partnership with show exhibitors.

• Workshops and special events: unique experiences to better understand the techniques behind working with denim.

• A cocktail organized on the first day in partnership with Turkish denim-maker ISKOTM, to celebrate indigo fabric and the 15th anniversary of Denim Première Vision.

DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION:

15 YEARS OF OBSERVATION AND SUPPORT FOR THE DENIM MARKET

A market decisively more fashion-oriented, multi-community, tech and sustainable

Since the launch of Denim Première Vison in 2007, pure players, the show’s longstanding target, have been joined by new players with more diversified fashion codes, profiles and expectations.

Brands and fashion designers from the luxury, mid- and high-end ready-to-wear markets, the pure players on the web, retailers, new generations of designers and consumers - all these multiple communities now populate the denim universe.

In recent years, the market has become more and more fashion oriented, and denim an increasingly important part of collections.

In today’s market, a less-narrow and less-fixed, more creative and daring vision of denim prevails, set off from the traditional denim values of rebellion and vintage. The desire for personalization has given rise to multiple cuts and silhouettes co-existing within the same brand, collection or even wardrobe: slim and classic straight cuts are found alongside bootcut, high-waisted wide-legged and baggy styles.

Jeans thus convey several messages, depending on their style, shape, wash and occasion. When formal, they can replace the office suit; in a relaxed vein, they grow casual; when more fashionable and creative, they reflect more personal desires.

This evolving market is also driven by new eco-responsible values and a pervasive and growing digital culture.

For younger generations, responsibility has become a prerequisite in everything from the creative process, on through product development and the choice of materials. This necessitates structural changes throughout the production value chain, changes which have been the focus of themes examined by Denim Première Vision for over 10 years now, more recently through its Smart Creation platform.

Born in a digital age, and immersed in the culture of technology and information immediacy, the new generations follow codes and values that directly impact brands, distribution, the development of collaborations and communication.

Faced with these societal and cultural developments, the market and the sector are adapting through a number of structuring initiatives that impact creation, production in the technological sense of the term, the geographical breakdown of the world’s production zones and finally the product mix.

Today, Denim Première Vision proposes an event that is at once open to younger generations yet true to the heritage of denim, with fashion and creation, the avant-garde, and sustainable and digital innovation at its core, via an offer and program providing concrete solutions to this changing market.

An international and roving show that emphasizes the proximity of the fashion and creative markets, while offering new inspiring locations for the industry.

A SELECTIVE AND SPECIALIZED OFFER FROM OVER 65 EXHIBITORS

In November, Denim Première Vision will present the selective offer and latest developments from more than 66 leading companies, to be discovered online on the Première Vision Marketplace (accessible via the premierevision.com website) and in-person at the show.

Coming from 14 countries and selected from among the top specialists in Europe - Italy, Spain -, the Mediterranean basin - Turkey, Morocco - and Asia - Japan, Pakistan, Bangladesh -, these exhibitors represent the full range of supply chain activities:

Spinners, weavers, garment manufacturers/laundries/finishers, component and accessory makers, technology developers.

At the show this season in Milan :

ISKOTM (FABRICS, Turkey), KURABO (Fabrics, Japan), KASSIM DENIM (Fabrics, Pakistan), KUROKI (Fabrics, Japan), REALTEKS (Fabrics, Turkey), RIBBONTEX (Accessories, Italy), BOSSA DENIM (Fabrics, Turkey), FABRITEX (Fabrics, Italy), CHOTTANI INDUSTRIES (Garments & Finishings, Pakistan), CALIK DENIM (Fabrics, Turkey), AZGARD (Fabrics, Pakistan), FASHIONART (Garments & Finishings, Italy), OFFICINA +39 (Technology, Italy), VELCOREX (Fabrics, France), MARITAS DENIM (Fabrics, Turkey), CADICA GROUP (Accessories, Italy), PACIFIC JEANS LTD (Garments & Finishings, Bangladesh), TAVEX (Fabrics, Morocco), TINTES EGARA, (Garments & Finishings, Spain), KOMET METAL (Accessories, Turkey) and many others...


DIVE INTO THE SPRING/SUMMER 24 DENIM SEASON 

For the spring/summer 24 denim season, the industry bravely, rebelliously reinvents and diversifies itself.

First, irregular, damaged and defective materials are transformed, decomposed and recomposed.

Next is the question of experimenting with re-using and recovering materials to give them a longer life: this is one of the key denim issues this season.

Finally, a third revolution is leading the denim world to rethink its physical universe, creating an opposition between the material world and the virtual world.

Denim is a blank page, always ready to be reinvented. This season sees experiments involving its structures, textures and handles.

Meantime, innovations serve to further sustainability. Solutions are multiplying on all fronts, from traceability, to the design process, to the end of a product’s life.

NEW! 3 INFORMATIVE AND INSPIRATIONAL FORUMS

This edition, instead of a single Trends Agora, three separate areas centrally situated at the show will present the main directions and inspirations for the spring summer 24 denim season.

The first two forums will present the dominant seasonal trends and main directions in terms of innovation, creation and product development via texts, images and a cutting-edge selection of fabrics, accessories and finished products from the collections of the show’s exhibitors.

The third forum is intended to inspire the future denim collections of brands and fashion designers via an inspiring, immersive video experience designed to literally plunge visitors into the heart of the season’s denim trends.


2 FASHION SEMINARS AND 2 DIGITAL LIVE-SOURCING EVENTS

At the show and online, find out more about the spring summer 24 season - its trends, products, materials - through a series of dedicated talks.

Seminars are created and produced by the Première Vision fashion team to inspire designers, and guide buyers in building their future denim collections.

o 2 Denim Fashion Seminars for S/S 24: in the Talks Area, the space dedicated to conferences. Lorenza Martello, denim fashion specialist at Première Vision, will present an exclusive seminar daily, for a better understanding of the spring summer 24 denim season: • inspirations and trend decoding

• directions in terms of shapes, cuts and silhouettes.

Wednesday, November 23rd at 2pm

Thursday, November 24th at 11am (Talks Area at the show).

Available to watch on the Première Vision website as of Monday, November 28th.

o 2 Digital Live Sourcing events: presented from the show’s forums by Lorenza Martello, Première Vision’s Denim Product Manager. These two Live Sourcing experiences present the season’s highlights, zeroing in on exhibitors’ new products that can be sourced either at the show or online on the Première Vision Marketplace.

Carried live at 3 pm daily on the Première Vision website (viewers can ask questions live), and replays will be available afterwards on Première Vision’s website and social media.

AN INSPIRING PROGRAM

TALKS BY EXPERTS

To keep step with changes in the market, and help guide the denim industry’s players in making their future choices, Denim Première Vision organizes and presents a series of conferences and talks about issues facing the sector: sustainability, digital innovation, production issues, etc.

In a specially dedicated Talks Area, exhibitors, fashion and denim brands, industry observers and experts will share their views with industry professionals at the show regarding solutions that can be brought to the denim industry, to help it continue to be ever more creative, innovative and responsible.

Conference program hereafter and daily updated on the Denim Première Vision website.

WEDNESDAY 23 NOVEMBER

12.30PM: TALK BY FASHION SNOOPS: TURNING TO DENIM DURING TIMES OF UNCERTAINTY

In fashion it’s difficult to find a category as long standing, worn and loved the world over as denim. Transcending across cultures, genders, classes, and generations, denim has become an iconic staple for the masses. As a powerful symbol of longevity, strength and grit it’s no surprise that denim has withstood two centuries of change and uncertainty and has repeatedly proven its ability to reinvent itself time and time again. Appealing to the most essential needs of its wearers, denim has always been a pillar of security in a word fret with tension. As the industry prepares to face a looming recession, rising inflation rates and the ongoing threat of future economic challenges, it makes sense that denim — notably a symbol of resilience — would continue its trajectory of perseverance through these challenging times. As the denim industry continues to evolve through change, we see the reclaiming of craftsmanship, recontextualized heritage, and fresh modes of D.I.Y creativity ushering in a new era of denim. In this presentation, Fashion Snoops’ Director of Materials Nia Silva will examine how these major cultural and lifestyle shifts are impacting and driving newness in the denim industry, creating a clear guide to the coming season.


Speaker: Nia Silva, Director of Materials, Fashion Snoops

2PM: DENIM FASHION SEMINAR: DENIM TRENDS FOR S/S 24:

Lorenza Martello, denim fashion specialist at Première Vision, will present an exclusive seminar daily, for a better understanding of the spring summer 24 denim season: - inspirations and trend decoding

- directions in terms of shapes, cuts and silhouettes.

3.30PM: DIGITAL HUMANISM: PHYGITAL COLLECTION 2.0 BY CALIK DENIM X JEANOLOGIA

Developed with Jeanologia’s e-Designer software, the collaborative collection produced with Calik Denim’s eco-conscious, laser- friendly fabrics by the application of sustainability-oriented processes of Jeanologia.

Speakers: Cigdem Kacar, Product Marketing Manager, Calik Denim; Amor Cardona, Brainbox, Jeanologia

4.30PM: HOW MADE IN ITALY IS FACING PRESENT AND FUTURE CHALLENGES?

The Italian value chain is made up by a vast range of uniquely expert and highly creative companies, each one serving the best players in their field globally. Four top Italian specialists discuss how they face present and future market challenges.

Moderator: Maria Cristina Pavarini, Senior Features Editor International, The SPIN OFF/Textil Wirtschaft

Speakers: Matteo Marzotto, Entrepreneur and President, Minerva Hub; Andrea Rambaldi, Owner, Fashionart Spa; Carlo Parisatto, Chief Marketing Officer (CMO) & Commercial Director, Cadica; Ugo Ghilardi, CEO, Itema Group



THURSDAY 24 NOVEMBER

11AM: DENIM FASHION SEMINAR: DENIM TRENDS FOR S/S 24:

Lorenza Martello, denim fashion specialist at Première Vision, will present an exclusive seminar daily, for a better understanding of the spring summer 24 denim season: - inspirations and trend decoding

- directions in terms of shapes, cuts and silhouettes.

1PM: GOOD THOUGHTS, GOOD WORDS, GOOD JEANS?

A good jean, sustainable and responsibly made denim, would indeed be a good deed for sustainability. But what is the roadmap to making good denim when too many words and thoughts can paralyze action? In this conference, Diesel’s Sustainability Ambassador, and up- cycling pioneer Andrea Rosso, speaks on why change relies first on changing our mindsets, joined by Kering’s Material Innovation Lab specialist, Caterina Tonda.

Moderator: Christian Layolle, sustainability advisor, co-founder and managing partner of ANIMA.

Speakers: Andrea Rosso, Sustainability Ambassador, Diesel; Caterina Tonda, materials research & sustainable sourcing specialist of the Material Innovation Lab at Kering.

2PM: EXHIBITOR PITCH - SHARABATI DENIM: RECYCLING IS SAVING, AND SAVING CAN BE SUSTAINABILITY’S BASE

Sustainability is not only about using recycled yarn or organic yarn, it is also about having sustainable processes in every step of production. Sharabati Denim will share its experience in having its own Recycle Yarn Factory, Recycle Caustic Soda Plant, Recycle Water Treatment System and also energy saving investments, water saving dyeing and finishing processes.

Speakers: Alessandro Moretti Ciacci, Sales and Marketing Director/ Ing. Sharabati Denim; Ghayth Miro, Global Quality Director, Sharabati Denim

3PM: EXHIBITOR PITCH – BOSSA : SUSTAINABLE COTTON PROJECTS

Detailed information about all sustainable cotton projects like organic cotton, colored cotton, regenerative cotton, BCI cotton, etc. Discover all sustainable farming systems and best environmental solutions for a more greener world!

Speaker: Besim Özek, Strategy and Business Development Director, Bossa


PV DENIM * FASHION DISTRICT #2

For the second time in a row, in addition to the creativity displayed by the show’s exhibitors, Denim Première Vision throws open the field of creative possibilities to some 10 international fashion brands and designers.

In a space adapted to each of their identities, they will present pieces developed in collaboration with selected show exhibitors. These exclusive denim garments and accessories will be part of their upcoming collections, and soon found in shops.

Participating brands:

• Revibe (France)

• RESAP(France)

• NTMB (Italy)

• Common Parts (Romania)

• Fade Out Label (Germany)

• Milena Andrade (Italy)

• Gallia (Italy)

• Gimmi Jeans (Italy)

• Denzilpatrick (United Kingdom) • Kentroy Yearwood (Netherlands) • Stripes Off Road (Italy)

• Blue of a Kind (Italy)

• Mars?m (Italy)

• Hen’s Teeth(Italy)

INFORMATIVE EXPERIENCES AND WORKSHOPS

To enhance the technical knowledge of industry professionals at the show, and broaden their perspectives in terms of new materials and inspirations, Denim Première Vision will present a series of exhibits, informative workshops and collaborative experiences at the Supertsudio Più.

The full and definitive program of workshops and experiences is available on the Denim Première Vision website.

The Indigo Eden collection

Initiated by Alessio Berto, the Indigo Eden project aims to create a zero impact capsule collection in collaboration between creative minds and companies committed to eco-responsibility. The 5 silhouettes of the collection will be exhibited in a dedicated space at the next Denim PV show in Milan.

Archives exhibition

The Italian group WP Lavori in Corso, founded in 1982 in Bologna, has chosen the Denim Première Vision show to exhibit the archives of its ready-to-wear and accessories collections on the occasion of

its 40th anniversary. An exhibition to be held in a dedicated space at the show.

Organic cotton made in Italy

Discover the story of 100% organic, fair trade and CO2 neutral Sicilian cotton through an exhibition prepared by Cotone Organico Sicilia, an organic farm specialised in the culture and processing of cotton in Sicily.

The experience of hand weaving

Founded in 1895, Tessitura La Colombina is a company that produces fabrics by hand on ancient looms. Come and practice your handloom skills and create your own denim fabric with the expert advice of Carlo Colombo at Denim PV!

The art of dyeing

During the 2 days of the show, take part in our collaborative textile design workshop. A dyeing experience by Emina Batik and Tintes Egara on a fabric woven by Tessitura La Colombina with the design of denim designer Stefano Aldighieri.

And more...

A story of circular economy with the Aborigeni Mezzadri photo exhibition, the “Denim then and now” installation by Officina+39, Prosperity Textile and Bluesign, the Rewind project, the Calik installation...

DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION DRESSES UP!

Who says jeans can’t be chic? For its 15th anniversary, the Denim Première Vision show is moving to Milan and offering itself a new 100% denim outfit, the result of a collaboration between designer and pattern- maker Alessio Berto, denim mill Sharabati Denim and manufacturer Fashion Art.

An expert in the art of pattern making, Alessio Berto has been running his own studio The Tailor Pattern Support since 2012. Specialising in denim, he is once again collaborating on the creation of the new outfit that will dress the show’s host team on 23 & 24 November at the Superstudio Più.

The unisex outfit consists of a shawl collar suit jacket and palazzo trousers in denim fabric from the collection of Turkish denim manufacturer Sharabati Denim, which was founded in 1978 in Syria and was among the first to produce denim in the Middle East.

On the manufacturing side, the future outfits of the show’s hosts and hostesses were entrusted to the Italian manufacturer FashionArt. Specialised in luxury goods, the company puts the technique and competence of its teams at the service of brands creativity for the design of their denim collections.

The labels for the new denim outfit were produced by Cadica Group, specialists in labels, embroidered ribbons and badges and packaging made from natural and sustainable materials.

FRENCH FASHION INSTITUTE X PREMIÈRE VISION STUDY

Buying behaviors and eco-responsibilty criteria for denim products for european & american consumers

With inflation rising due to soaring energy and raw material prices, and the impact of the Russian- Ukrainian conflict, global fashion consumption is not undergoing the hoped-for recovery following the 2020 and 2021 health crisis.

Given this context, it is interesting to examine the factors that motivate or inhibit consumers in their buying today, and also examine how they perceive and how much importance they give to sustainable fashion, especially with regard to denim products.

This is the purpose of the study* conducted of a panel of European (France, Germany, Italy, UK) and American (US) consumers in April 2022, as part of the Institut Français de la Mode x Première Vision chair. This study was conducted primarily with regard to denim fashion products.

4 TO 6 JEANS ON AVERAGE IN OUR WARDROBE

Above all, the study reveals that European and American consumers have on average between 4 to 6 pairs of jeans in their closet, with some country-specific differences. Italians and Americans have the highest amount, with an average of 6 pairs in their wardrobes.

Furthermore, nearly half of consumers (and even more than half in Germany, Italy and the US) report owning at least 5 to 10 pairs of jeans. Raw, classic, worn, fancy or personalized, jeans are an essential part of our wardrobes.

How many pairs of jeans do you own?

(jeans: 5-pocket denim trousers)


Those surveyed say they purchased a pair of jeans an average of 1 to 3 times over the last year.

In fact, while about a quarter of consumers say they have not bought any jeans this year (a figure that peaks at 40.8% among the British), the majority have bought at least one new pair (73.2% of the French, 74.2% of the Germans, 77.7% of the Italians, 59.2% of the British and 74.9% of the Americans), and between 17.7% (UK) and 35.6% (US) have bought more than 3 pairs this year.

In the past 12 months, how many pairs of jeans have you bought for yourself?

(jeans: 5-pocket denim trousers)



PRICE, QUALITY, COMFORT AND MATERIALS ARE CORE MOTIVATORS

When consumers are asked what are their 3 main criteria when buying jeans, comfort is cited first, regardless of the country (the n°1 criterion for 62.4% of the French, 62.5% of the Germans, 63.5% of the Italians, 67.6% of the British and 68.2% of the Americans).

This criterion is closely followed by price, which has intensified in the current volatile economic context: price is the n° 2 criterion for buying jeans for 54.2% of German consumers, 60.7% of French, 55.3% of Italians, 60.6% of British and 56.9% of Americans.

Quality, style and brand name criteria all come next, demonstrating, in an order that differs by country, denim’s inherent fashion nature, with items now expected to be creative and on-trend for a significant proportion of consumers.

However, beyond comfort, price, style and quality, consumers also attach particular importance to the criteria of eco-responsibility and transparency in the jeans they buy: the material it is made of, its place of manufacture and its more sustainable production processes.

Here, we also note a disparity between countries: while in France (22.9%), the UK (22.9%) and the US (24%), nearly a quarter of consumers say that one of the determining criteria for choosing a pair of jeans is their ability to be environmentally responsible, more than a third do so in Germany (33.1%) and Italy (37%).


When you buy a pair of jeans, what are the main criteria that determine your choice?

(1 to 3 answers possible)


PRODUCTION LOCATION, RECYCLED MATERIALS AND SOCIAL ETHICS:

KEY DETERMINANTS OF ECO-RESPONSIBLE JEANS

When consumers are asked which criteria they believe define an environmentally-responsible pair of jeans, answers vary from country to country, but all agree that the most important and decisive element is the material, followed closely in 2nr or 3rd place by production location, and the respect of social conditions in manufacturing plants.

Thus, for a majority of consumers in France (72.2%), Germany (75.4%), Italy (83.6%), the UK (80.8%) and the US (79.5%), the fabric of the jeans, whether made from recycled textiles or fibers, organic cotton or certified organic fabrics, is the number one criterion in terms of qualifying a pair of jeans as eco-responsible.

After that, opinions are more divided. In France (41.7%) and the US (44.9%), the most cited eco- responsibility criterion following the material is the place of production. For these countries, (France and the US), which have been communicating and promoting ‘Made In’ for several years now, locally- manufactured jeans has become a decisive factor in the eyes of consumers. This is also the case, to a lesser extent, in the UK, where 33.8% of the consumers surveyed ranked this issue in 2nd place.

Finally, the social and ethical conditions under which a pair of jeans have been produced ranks 3rd in France (35.5%), the US (28.4%) and the UK (30.1%). In Germany (34.1%) and Italy (39.8%), social ethics are cited as the 2nd most important elements in determining the eco-responsible nature of a pair of jeans.


In your opinion, eco-friendly jeans are, above all...

(1 to 3 answers possible)

 

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