#Knitting & Hosiery

2022-11-09

Knit and go

Samples of the latest STOLL trend collection WONDERFUL © 2022 KARL MAYER

The goal of Adidas’ ambitious Knit-For-You project was the production of customised clothing locally and by everyone, nothing more and nothing less. It combined a store with a miniature factory, allowing customers to have their very own personalised sweater knitted. There was a wide diversity of design possibilities within the set framework, and production took only a few hours. It was done directly in the pop-up store, on STOLL flat knitting machines that produced 3D flat knits in an automated ready-to-wear process.

Automated production of custom, ready-to-use flat knitted fabrics

Adidas investigated the manufacturing potential behind digitalisation as well as customers’ needs for individualisation through its Storefactory activities. It launched at the end of 2016 and ended in March 2017. Ulrike Schlenker from KARL MAYER Corporate Communication wanted to know how the market and production technology for 3D knitted fabrics for immediate use have developed since then, so she asked an expert: Michael Händel, Vice President Sales & Service at KARL MAYER STOLL Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH.

US: What is the current technology like in STOLL knitting machines used for the automated production of 3D flat knitted articles?

MH: Generally speaking, STOLL flat knitting machines can produce any 3D knitted fabric, and every modern STOLL flat knitting machine can be used for process automation. All the latest generation models have interfaces for using automation software through which they can be integrated into the complete workflow, from design creation to the finished product – all developed in-house by STOLL. STOLL offers autocreate® for the simple definition of workflows. Whether different pattern variations, sets of different sizes or customised on-demand articles, STOLL autocreate® allows for the creation of knit patterns in fully automatic sequences without manual intervention. The data required for this is imported via open interfaces from other programs or physical data storage. STOLL has developed CREATE PLUS to convert all design data into a final knitting program for the machine.

CREATE PLUS and autocreate® make every latest-generation STOLL flat knitting machine an indispensable automation module for 3D flat knitting production.

US: The Knit-For-You project focused on 3D knitwear for the fashion sector. Where and how are STOLL machines used today for 3D knitting?

MH: 3D knitted fabrics and STOLL flat knitting machines are used for clothing as well as in the technical textiles sector.

Knit-and-wear articles along with seamless and close-to-skin designs are especially in demand in the fashion segment. Our current WONDERFUL trend collection has great examples of this. The manufacturers produce exclusive designer pieces, which is where the impressive design possibilities of 3D flat knitting really come into their own. They also produce standard goods, such as seamless knitted sweaters, which can be produced in only a few process steps and at low cost. Low material waste also offers advantages in terms of sustainability.

These same advantages come into play in the technical textiles sector when it comes to the production of articles for the automotive, sports, furniture and medical segments.

Examples include form-knitted covers for upholstered furniture and car seats, 3D bandages and orthoses, and even sports shoes. This allows for significant streamlining of processes, especially in the footwear sector, as demonstrated by a project carried out in conjunction with DESMA: the complete shoe upper was produced in a single piece on a STOLL knitting machine. All that remained was for the sole to be moulded onto the product.

US: What are the major locations in Europe for the production of 3D flat knitwear?

MH: The real hub for 3D flat knitted fabrics is Italy, where they mainly produce exclusive articles for the fashion industry. Germany also enjoys a long tradition in this area, with other major 3D flat knitting locations to be found in Poland and France, and a number of prominent, specialised industry players in Switzerland and Austria.

RDJ 6/2 in E 32: Finesse in Motion

The appearance of sports and casual shoes is as diverse as their applications, ranging from sporty to stylish and from functional to fashionably practical. In particular, spacer fabrics produced on highly flexible KARL MAYER double needle bar raschel machines with Jacquard technology are in high demand for manufacturing these trendy shoes. These efficient production machines enable attractive designs with integrated multifunctional zones on one or both fabric surfaces, such as breathable mesh structures. Flexible in size and positioning, these features enhance both aesthetics and wearing comfort.

3D designs with a wow factor made on HKS 4-M EL ECO: When crepe, ruffles, and sheer fabrics redefine fashion

Seersucker, flip-flap items, Fırfır, or crepe materials: structured fabrics have long been more than just a passing trend. They lend timeless looks depth, dynamism, and an exciting tactile dimension. Whether classic striped patterns or modern solid-color interpretations, these versatile pieces pair perfectly with casual and business-casual outfits and effortlessly create a modern look.

More patterns, less effort: the MULTI-MATIC® at Rohleder

Rohleder is one of Europe’s most modern weaving mills. For over 80 years, the family-owned company has been developing and manufacturing premium fabrics for brands, retailers and private customers – 100% Made in Germany. This success is made possible by a consistent focus on design, quality, and functionality, as well as by continuous investment in state-of-the-art production facilities. Rohleder also relies on innovative technologies in warp preparation and has been collaborating with KARL MAYER for many years. As recently as 2023, a MULTI-MATIC® was delivered to the company’s headquarters in Konradsreuth.

SHIMA SEIKI to exhibit at Première Vision Paris

Leading digital textile solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will exhibit at Première Vision Paris in Paris, France next month. The company will exhibit in the "Smart Creation" area, dedicated to showcasing cutting-edge technologies that integrate sustainability and innovation. The knitting expert will be demonstrating solutions that optimize product development workflows and enhance sustainability through proposals in Digital Product Creation (DPC).

The new RJ 4/2 EL revolutionizes body mapping and expands creative possibilities – from smart lingerie to sporty athleisure designs

With the addition of another member to its successful RASCHELTRONIC® family, KARL MAYER is opening up new possibilities for creative product development for warp knitting mills and brands. The RJ 4/2 EL offers with two stitch-forming Jacquard bars entirely new design options for functional sportswear and bi-elastic lingerie. Available in gauges E 28 and E 32, this new model helps manufacturers set their collections apart from the competition. The fine E-32 gauges, in particular, impress with their clean surface, a pleasantly soft feel, and an exceptionally elegant look.

SHIMA SEIKI brings new flat knitting technologies to FEBRATEX 2026

Leading flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TEXTIL LTDA., will exhibit at the Brazilian Textile Industry Fair (FEBRATEX 2026) this month. On display will be a roundup of SHIMA SEIKI computerized flat knitting technology, represented by WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines, computerized flat knitting machines featuring a brand-new model with high productivity and excellent cost performance, a glove knitting machine and the latest digital solutions.

Cotton Brazil Dialogues 2026 concludes with 50 international participants immersed in Brazilian cotton production

The Cotton Brazil Dialogues concludes its 2026 edition after a series of technical visits to farms, cotton gins and reference centers, as well as workshops focused on Brazilian cotton production. A total of 50 participants from 14 countries took part in the field trips. The initiative is led by the Brazilian Association of Cotton Growers (Abrapa) and the National Association of Cotton Exporters (Anea), with support from the Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency (ApexBrasil).

Novel flame-retardant and recyclable fiber-reinforced composite

Airplanes and passenger trains must meet strict safety requirements, including fire safety standards. This calls for materials that are flame-retardant, lightweight, robust, and scalable. Empa researchers, in collaboration with their industry partner Elantas, have now succeeded for the first time in making such a material – a composite – fully recyclable.

WHILL selects Teijin’s tough, lightweight Carbon Fiber Composite for new last-mile mobility

Teijin Limited announced today that WHILL Inc., a global leader in inclusive mobility technology, has selected Sereebo® P CFP series, a carbon fiber-reinforced thermoplastic (CFRTP) material, for key structural components of the upcoming WHILL Model C Lite. Sereebo® P CFP series provides high strength, light weight, design flexibility and system cost advantages to the Model C Lite, which is a battery powered, single-seat, last-mile device. This new model combines maneuverability with light weight and one-handed folding to ensure ease of handling and operation.