#Knitting & Hosiery

2022-11-09

Knit and go

Samples of the latest STOLL trend collection WONDERFUL © 2022 KARL MAYER

The goal of Adidas’ ambitious Knit-For-You project was the production of customised clothing locally and by everyone, nothing more and nothing less. It combined a store with a miniature factory, allowing customers to have their very own personalised sweater knitted. There was a wide diversity of design possibilities within the set framework, and production took only a few hours. It was done directly in the pop-up store, on STOLL flat knitting machines that produced 3D flat knits in an automated ready-to-wear process.

Automated production of custom, ready-to-use flat knitted fabrics

Adidas investigated the manufacturing potential behind digitalisation as well as customers’ needs for individualisation through its Storefactory activities. It launched at the end of 2016 and ended in March 2017. Ulrike Schlenker from KARL MAYER Corporate Communication wanted to know how the market and production technology for 3D knitted fabrics for immediate use have developed since then, so she asked an expert: Michael Händel, Vice President Sales & Service at KARL MAYER STOLL Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH.

US: What is the current technology like in STOLL knitting machines used for the automated production of 3D flat knitted articles?

MH: Generally speaking, STOLL flat knitting machines can produce any 3D knitted fabric, and every modern STOLL flat knitting machine can be used for process automation. All the latest generation models have interfaces for using automation software through which they can be integrated into the complete workflow, from design creation to the finished product – all developed in-house by STOLL. STOLL offers autocreate® for the simple definition of workflows. Whether different pattern variations, sets of different sizes or customised on-demand articles, STOLL autocreate® allows for the creation of knit patterns in fully automatic sequences without manual intervention. The data required for this is imported via open interfaces from other programs or physical data storage. STOLL has developed CREATE PLUS to convert all design data into a final knitting program for the machine.

CREATE PLUS and autocreate® make every latest-generation STOLL flat knitting machine an indispensable automation module for 3D flat knitting production.

US: The Knit-For-You project focused on 3D knitwear for the fashion sector. Where and how are STOLL machines used today for 3D knitting?

MH: 3D knitted fabrics and STOLL flat knitting machines are used for clothing as well as in the technical textiles sector.

Knit-and-wear articles along with seamless and close-to-skin designs are especially in demand in the fashion segment. Our current WONDERFUL trend collection has great examples of this. The manufacturers produce exclusive designer pieces, which is where the impressive design possibilities of 3D flat knitting really come into their own. They also produce standard goods, such as seamless knitted sweaters, which can be produced in only a few process steps and at low cost. Low material waste also offers advantages in terms of sustainability.

These same advantages come into play in the technical textiles sector when it comes to the production of articles for the automotive, sports, furniture and medical segments.

Examples include form-knitted covers for upholstered furniture and car seats, 3D bandages and orthoses, and even sports shoes. This allows for significant streamlining of processes, especially in the footwear sector, as demonstrated by a project carried out in conjunction with DESMA: the complete shoe upper was produced in a single piece on a STOLL knitting machine. All that remained was for the sole to be moulded onto the product.

US: What are the major locations in Europe for the production of 3D flat knitwear?

MH: The real hub for 3D flat knitted fabrics is Italy, where they mainly produce exclusive articles for the fashion industry. Germany also enjoys a long tradition in this area, with other major 3D flat knitting locations to be found in Poland and France, and a number of prominent, specialised industry players in Switzerland and Austria.

More patterns, less effort: the MULTI-MATIC® at Rohleder

Rohleder is one of Europe’s most modern weaving mills. For over 80 years, the family-owned company has been developing and manufacturing premium fabrics for brands, retailers and private customers – 100% Made in Germany. This success is made possible by a consistent focus on design, quality, and functionality, as well as by continuous investment in state-of-the-art production facilities. Rohleder also relies on innovative technologies in warp preparation and has been collaborating with KARL MAYER for many years. As recently as 2023, a MULTI-MATIC® was delivered to the company’s headquarters in Konradsreuth.

The new RJ 4/2 EL revolutionizes body mapping and expands creative possibilities – from smart lingerie to sporty athleisure designs

With the addition of another member to its successful RASCHELTRONIC® family, KARL MAYER is opening up new possibilities for creative product development for warp knitting mills and brands. The RJ 4/2 EL offers with two stitch-forming Jacquard bars entirely new design options for functional sportswear and bi-elastic lingerie. Available in gauges E 28 and E 32, this new model helps manufacturers set their collections apart from the competition. The fine E-32 gauges, in particular, impress with their clean surface, a pleasantly soft feel, and an exceptionally elegant look.

The new RDJ 7/3 defines the design footprint of modern athletic shoes

Stylish, functional, and efficient to produce – spacer fabrics are the all-arounders among textile materials. These versatile fabrics are particularly in demand in the sports and casual footwear sector, as they combine comfort, breathability, and design freedom. At the same time, this industry is trend-driven, dynamic, and price-sensitive like few others. Innovations are therefore a decisive factor for success. With the RDJ 7/3, KARL MAYER offers a solution specifically tailored to these requirements. The particular strength of the new double raschel machine: its exceptional flexibility, thanks to its three jacquard bars.

SHIMA SEIKI brings new flat knitting technologies to FEBRATEX 2026

Leading flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TEXTIL LTDA., will exhibit at the Brazilian Textile Industry Fair (FEBRATEX 2026) this month. On display will be a roundup of SHIMA SEIKI computerized flat knitting technology, represented by WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines, computerized flat knitting machines featuring a brand-new model with high productivity and excellent cost performance, a glove knitting machine and the latest digital solutions.

Expansive innovations converge in Shanghai as Yarn Expo Autumn 2026 opens doors next week

With just days to go, industry enthusiasm is building for the opening of Yarn Expo Autumn, Asia’s premier yarn and fibre trade fair, running from 25 – 27 August at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). Across 27,000 sqm in Hall 8.2, buyers will find nearly 600 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions, spread across seven specialised zones that range from cutting-edge man-made and regenerated fibres to time-honoured cashmere and silk. Beyond the extensive sourcing options, a fringe programme of trend showcases, presentations and product launches rounds out the three¬day event with design, innovation and market intelligence.

DOMOTEX Southeast Asia 2026 - Building the Gateway to ASEAN's fast-growing flooring market

From 11–13 November 2026, the inaugural DOMOTEX Southeast Asia will take place at BITEC (Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre) in Bangkok, Thailand. Jointly organized by GLOBUS Events Limited and Hannover Milano Fairs Shanghai Ltd., with Worldex G.E.C. Co., Ltd. as the local partner, the exhibition marks the expansion of the internationally recognized DOMOTEX brand into Southeast Asia. As the newest addition to the global DOMOTEX portfolio, the exhibition has been developed specifically to serve the rapidly evolving ASEAN market, creating a dedicated business event for the flooring and interior finishing industry.

Execs help steer Cascale’s consumer goods agenda in Athens

The 2026 Cascale Annual Meeting, taking place September 15–17 in Athens, Greece, will convene leaders from across the global consumer goods value chain to tackle one of the industry’s defining questions: how to accelerate meaningful, system-wide transformation. Guiding those conversations as this year’s co-chairs are Sean Cady, vice president, global sustainability, responsibility, trade, and government affairs at VF Corporation, and Dr. Delman Lee, vice chair at TAL Apparel Limited.