#Yarn & Fiber

2024-06-06

Lenzing and Cobalt Fashion partner with Exponent Envirotech to revolutionize fashion

Lenzing Group, a leading global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, has partnered with technology start-up Exponent Envirotech to introduce ECOHUES™, a waterless dyeing technology to wood-based cellulosic fibers. The technology, regarded as a possible alternative to conventional water-based dyeing, can be applicable to cotton and linen yarns.

ECOHUES(TM) tag on a fabric dyed with the Exponent Envirotech dyeing technology © 2024 Exponent Envirotech

Through collaboration with Lenzing, for the first time, ECOHUES™ is applied to cellulosic fibers, namely TENCEL™ branded lyocell and modal fibers, as well as LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded viscose fibers, which are certified with the EU Ecolabel for environmental excellence2. Joining forces with Hong Kong-based innovative knitwear manufacturer Cobalt Fashion, the dynamic trio is set to bring the scientific breakthrough to the mainstream textile market.

“At Lenzing, we are constantly collaborating with partners to identify innovative solutions that not only ensure product quality but also strive to reduce usage of our planet’s resources. The collaboration with Exponent Envirotech and Cobalt Fashion is a testament to such dedication, as we bring scalable innovations to the textile value chain,” said Rex Mok, Director of Technical Marketing and Development, Global Textiles Business, Lenzing. “We are excited to incorporate ECOHUES™ a revolutionary dyeing technique, to lyocell, modal and viscose fibers for the first time. With the availability of such technology, we are taking a crucial step towards systematically reforming conventional practices within the textile value chain.”

Cobalt Fashion - Garment © 2024 Cobalt Fashion

ECOHUES™: an innovative solution that improves resource efficiency and ensures color vibrancy3

For every ton of yarn, 120 tons of water is required in the traditional dyeing process. This usually involves pre-treatment, water-based dyeing, washing, and finishing under a chemically intensive environment. ECOHUES™ technology effectively replaces the use of water in the dyeing process with a non-aqueous solvent that is 99.8% reusable and streamlines the pre-treatment and finishing processes by nearly removing the need for soap washing after dyeing. This helps to reduce the overall water usage by 95% compared to traditional dyeing methods. The simplified process not only lowers water and energy consumption but also boosts cost-effectiveness and production efficiency by significantly reducing the traditional dyeing duration from 12 hours to 6-8 hours.

Additionally, ECOHUES™ eliminates the use of salt as a common dyeing assistant to address the industry’s long-standing issue of high salinity in textile wastewater. With a 40% dyestuff saving, ECOHUES™ greatly reduces the amount of dye required while ensuring a color fixation rate of over 97% which outperforms the average rate of traditional water bath dyeing by more than 30%, maintaining a stable color performance of the yarn. Complementing the use of yarns made of TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers, which are made with at least 50% less carbon emissions and water consumption4 and further reduce the overall energy and chemical usage compared to cotton by skipping the bleaching process with its natural white colour, it offers a more responsible choice for customers and brand partners.

“As a company dedicated to sustainable and energy-optimization solutions for the industry, Exponent Envirotech has been a champion of environmental-friendly innovation since day one,” said Wesley Choi, Chairman, Exponent Envirotech. “This project integrates sustainable production practices with responsible materials, forging a new standard for resource-efficient and environmentally friendly fashion production within the industry.”

Power of collaboration to systematically reform to conventional practices within the textile value chain

While the ECOHUES™ technology could be applied to almost all segments including innerwear, ready-to-wear, activewear and footwear in which cellulosic fibers are widely used, knitwear has been chosen as the application to bring the results of the collaboration to life. Produced by Cobalt Fashion, the knitwear collection is crafted with yarns made with Lenzing fibers dyed with ECOHUES™ technology, demonstrating how Lenzing’s cellulosic fibers, when combined with the technology, can enhance the performance of knitwear, meeting the demands of consumers who seek both style and sustainability.

"As we strive to lead in sustainable fashion, Cobalt Fashion relentlessly pursues innovative yarns that reduce carbon emissions and water usage while maintaining performance and affordability," remarked Andrew Dixon, Senior Vice President, Merchandising, Cobalt Fashion. "Non-water dyeing methods often require less energy when compared to conventional dyeing techniques. This energy efficiency can lead to cost savings for textile manufacturers and contribute to a more sustainable industry. This partnership is an important first step as we join hands to create far-reaching impact and bring systematic change across the textile industry.”

1 When compared to conventional water-based dyeing processes.

2 EU Ecolabel for textile products (license no. AT/016/001).

3 https://ecohues.earth

4 Compared to generic (unbranded) lyocell, modal and viscose. The results were calculated according to LCA standards (ISO 14040/44) and are made available via the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI) by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (Version 3.7).

Lenzing reports improved half-year results and advances strategic transformation

Despite a persistently challenging market environment in the first half of 2026, characterized by volatile energy and raw material prices, subdued global consumer demand and intensified competition from Asia, the Lenzing Group significantly improved its financial performance. Net result after tax more than doubled to EUR 35.6 million, compared with EUR 15.2 million in the first half of 2025. Free cash flow increased to EUR 45.8 million, while EBITDA amounted to EUR 239.2 million. Revenue totaled EUR 1.27 billion, compared with EUR 1.34 billion in the previous year.

Expansive innovations converge in Shanghai as Yarn Expo Autumn 2026 opens doors next week

With just days to go, industry enthusiasm is building for the opening of Yarn Expo Autumn, Asia’s premier yarn and fibre trade fair, running from 25 – 27 August at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). Across 27,000 sqm in Hall 8.2, buyers will find nearly 600 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions, spread across seven specialised zones that range from cutting-edge man-made and regenerated fibres to time-honoured cashmere and silk. Beyond the extensive sourcing options, a fringe programme of trend showcases, presentations and product launches rounds out the three¬day event with design, innovation and market intelligence.

Dornbirn GFC 2026 expands conference program with new thematic sessions

For 65 years, Dornbirn GFC has stood for innovation and is one of the world’s leading conferences in the fiber industry. From September 16 to 18, 2026, the international fiber community will meet in Dornbirn, Austria, to discuss current trends, technological developments, and forward-looking solutions. More than 600 experts from industry and academia from over 30 countries are expected to attend. With around 100 presentations by renowned speakers, a 2,5-day conference program, and three parallel presentation rooms with moderated sessions, Dornbirn GFC provides a first-class platform for knowledge exchange, networking, and international collaboration. Together, participants will generate ideas and impulses that will sustainably shape the future of the global fiber industry.

Global Standards announce launch of a new textile processing standard

The 14th September 2026 marks the public launch of the Global Responsible Textile Standard (GRTS), a new standard for the processing of textiles made from fibres certified to third-party standards recognised by GRTS and covering a broad range of plant, animal, synthetic, man-made cellulosic and recycled fibres.

Orient Rongheng connects production planning across China and Bangladesh with FastReactPlan

Chinese apparel manufacturer Orient Rongheng is implementing Coats Digital’s FastReactPlan to digitalize production planning across its manufacturing operations in China and Bangladesh. The project aims to connect capacity, materials and order planning across multiple factories while integrating these processes with the company’s existing ERP and Manufacturing Execution System (MES).

ALLIED expands down traceability with lot-level carbon footprint data

ALLIED Feather + Down has expanded its TrackMyDown traceability platform to include validated cradle-to-gate carbon footprint data linked to individual down lots. The initiative is designed to provide brands and consumers with more detailed environmental information on the materials used in finished products and could also support future data requirements associated with Digital Product Passports.

bluesign launches bluepass alongside first consumer-facing campaign

With its first consumer-facing advertising campaign, bluesign is taking a new approach to making chemical management, manufacturing standards and third-party verification more visible to consumers. The UNSEEN campaign will launch on September 20 around New York Climate Week and accompanies the introduction of bluepass, bluesign’s new consumer-facing designation.